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This modification gives you the following functions:
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External Eject Button |
|
External Activity LED |
|
No Disk Present LED (Lit when DVD drive is empty) |
|
Disk Present LED (Lit when DVD drive has a disk inside) |
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First of: my virgin Pioneer Slot DVD.
The faceplate will of course be removed for vinyl dying.
Some features:
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Slot Load |
|
16X DVD Speed |
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Slot loads both Normal and 3inch CDs |
|
A firmware upgrade allows for quieter operation |
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Now: lets get onto the modding.
Remove the bottom metal cover.
There are two thermal pads on the chips (Grey color) remove these and set them
aside.
You will see two Printed Circuit Boards.
The smaller board contains all the parts we are interested in.
BUT the easiest way to do this modification is on the larger PCB
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If you follow the white ribbon cable connecting the small PCB to the larger one,
you will find the test points above.
We will use these to solder directly to.
I have highlighted the needed connections, and added extra pointers to help you
with this modification.
I recommend highlighting the solder points you will be using with a red sharpie
marker to help with locating the points later when you will solder to them.
The labels at the right give you the details to the solder points.
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[DGND] = Digital Ground (Or normal case ground) |
|
[EJECT-] = Eject (Active low, connect to ground to eject) |
|
[TRAYOUT -] = No Disk present inside the drive (Active Low) |
|
[TRAYIN-] = Disk is present inside the drive (Active Low) |
|
[LED-] = Activity LED (Negative side of LED, Active Low) |
|
[5VA2] = +5 Volts |
Notes:
-Active Low means the point will be grounded when active.
-The [TrayOut-] and [TrayIn-] are connected directly to ground via a switch,
they can handle ~100mA of power.
-The Activity LED or [LED-], is also grounded when active, but directly though
the controller.
-I would not push more then 40mA though this connection.
-Make sure your source voltage for your LEDs is not more then +5volts, or you
will risk damaging the controller on the PCB.
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In order to make this mod easy you should remove this PCB from the drive.
Locate the brown holders that hold the ribbon cables in place.
Carefully pull these slightly out, then tilt them up.
The golden ribbon cable doesn't have a holder though; it just pulls out.
Be careful not to crimp any of these cables, as they break VERY easily.
I recommend using tweezers, or needle nose pliers for this step.
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With the board removed you can flip it over, and see a nice empty area at the
left side of the headers.
We will be adding our own custom header to this area.
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First some tools.
You will need a hot glue gun, super-glue, exacto knife, and a snappable header.
( 6 x 2 pin array needed)
Remove the last two pins on each end of the header.
This give you more surface area to keep the header attached to the PCB.
You should have a 4x2 grid of pins after this.
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Super-glue the header in place, and make sure it will not fall off while
soldering.
We are now ready to start soldering onto the header.
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First off, having knowledge of the circuit you are working on can save you a lot
of time, and trouble.
For example I used a continuity meter to find another spot to get +5 volts from.
The trace highlighted above gets +5volts directly from the Molex power connector
on the drive.
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Using an exacto knife CAREFULLY scrape the green coated from off the copper
trace.
This can be easy, and very little pressure is needed.
Make sure not to scrape any other traces, as solder will stick to any exposed
copper.
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Now in order to make this modification very easy to use, I choose to directly
hot-glue current limiting resistors inside the DVD Drive. (100 Ohm)
This allows direct connection of most super-bright LEDs to the drive.
Also note the large ground area below the header.
I scrapped a little circle off in order to provide the grounding needed for the
eject button to work.
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Each wire is then soldered one by one; from the header to the test point on the
back of the PCB.
A continuity meter is then used to make sure there are no shorts between any of
the wires, or pins.
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Now the problem with a header like this, is that the pins will push right out of
the plastic when pressure is applied.
So to fix this you inject a generous amount of hot glue over the pins, and
around the header.
This both locks the pins in place, and prevents any bending of the wires, and
holds the header in place.
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Now the PCB is ready to be re-installed into the DVD drive.
BUT there is a plastic wall in the way of the header.
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Simply cut this out, and you will have space for the new header.
(I have tested this, and no mechanical parts inside will hit the header or wires
either)
Push the PCB back into place, and carefully re-connect the flat ribbon cables.
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Once installed the DVD can be powered and the header tested.
Do not leave the DVD on for very long without the bottom cover, as it is a
heatsink for two of the chips on the board.
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I then labeled the back of my DVD drive so wiring up LEDs later will be easy.
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Simply plug in headers into the DVD, and at the other connect your LEDs and
eject switch for extra functionality with your Pioneer DVD drive.
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Notes:
The TRAYOUT, and TRAYIN signals are perfect for dual-color LEDs, and can provide
an instant indicator as to whether a disk is inside your drive or not.
If the activity LED you connect is dimmer then normal, then you need to remove
the drives normal green Activity LED on the smaller PCB.
Note when removing the smaller PCB, that there is a belt connected one of the
motors.
To re-install this, remove the top plate, push the drive tray back, and you
should have easy access to the motor and gear to put the belt back on.
Have fun, and I am not responsible if you fry your DVD Drive while attempting
this modification
